Thursday, 14 February 2013

NYFW Fall/Winter 2013: Favourite Collections

3.1 Phillip Lim | Alice + Olivia | Cushnie et Ochs

3.1 Phillip Lim's Fall collection has been described as "scorched-earth attitude". The inspiration for this season was bikers, and more specifically, the girlfriends of said bikers. There were some truly gorgeous pieces within this collection. I particularly liked the patched denim skinnies, statement sunglasses, moto jackets, and wool coats.

I've been a long-time fan of Alice + Olivia, and frequently lusted after previous collections on Net-a-Porter and Bergdorf Goodman. What I really loved about the Fall collection was how buildable the looks were - wearable too. There were so many different textures to play about with and layer onto an outfit. My favourite pieces were the bonded-knit motorcycle jacket, the patchwork faux fur, and the abundance of lace and brocade (the gorgeous lace dresses above, particularly). I also absolutely adored the comeback of the classic milkmaid braid on all the models!

Cushnie et Ochs are known for their bodycon dresses but this Fall they showed that they are so much more than that. Their season inspiration was pilgrims and witches, which was reflected in the models' vamped up makeup and slicked back hair. Again, there were some lovely pieces which comprised of unusual and unique textures - a dress made entirely from rubberised wool, for example - and the cuts made the designs nothing short of sleek and sexy. 

Diane von Fürstenberg | DKNY | ICB

I loved Diane von Fürstenberg's collection, mainly due to the amount of leopard print she incorporated into so many looks. There were also a few variants on her famous suede-wrapped dress which has been popular since the 1970s. Her theme and inspiration was glam rock, and there were some beautiful pieces which included bright metallic leather jeans, patterned jumpsuits and patterned midi dresses.

Urban outfitting was the focus for DKNY this season and represented more of street style, whilst still incorporating some iconic pieces like the oversize quilted bomber jacket. I liked that she mixed up the show with blacks and beiges, and then bringing out the striking bright pinks and reds. There was also an abundance of leopard print in the collection, which seems to be a patterning alternative to camouflage this upcoming season.

I think I may have been a bit biased towards the ICB collection because I love the chief designer, Prabal Gurung, who joined the brand a year ago. He said backstage that he was thinking about NYC and real women who are looking for a solution to look good in the Winter elements. The collection was pretty casual and focused a lot more on outerwear rather than long floaty dresses. Having said that, my favourite pieces were a few of the dresses, not to mention the multi-zipped belt which was featured in several looks.

Jason Wu | Jenny Packham | Karen Walker

A current favourite of First Lady Michelle Obama, Jason Wu wowed spectators with his Fall collection.  He described it as his "most womanly, most grown-up" collection to date. Shoulder-padded power suits nipped in at the waist, buttoned up shirts, and lots of fur. The colour scheme seemed to be a preferred black and white, with a couple of red pieces thrown in for good measure. I also loved the hair and makeup he decided on for his models: a beautiful striking blue eye - which contrasted with the clothing colours - and woven roses bunched at the nape of the neck.

Jenny Packham may be one of my favourite new designers. An Englishwoman holding her own in the fashion world, her formalwear is much sought after by the likes of Kate Middleton and Angelina Jolie. There was so much to admire on the runway: beaded dresses in washed pastels and muted jewel tones, dainty jewelry, and woolen outerwear because "everyone seems so cold on the red carpet". There were a lot of peach and coral tones, mainly in the form of beautiful floor length gowns, plus a few high necked pieces in much darker colours. And I cannot forget the mention of the gorgeous shoes - Christian Louboutin, of course!

I really enjoyed the emphasis on clean-cut silhouettes and solid block colours in Karen Walker's collection. The belted tunic dress (above) was my particular favourite, simply because it is so wearable and not too in-your-face for a designer garment. Her Fall collection seems accessible and designed specifically for all kinds of wardrobes (I got a very 70s vibe colour and cut-wise), with many of the pieces available as a start to any look. I also adored the booties and statement sunglasses.

Mara Hoffman | Misha Nonoo | Monique Lhuillier

I have got to admit, for me, the kooky prints in Mara Hoffman's collection were the garments which first attracted me. It was pretty hard not to take a peek when she uses sheer vibrance to enhance a look. My favourites were the hot pink elephant and peacock print dress (above), and the same fabric applied to a buttoned jumpsuit with a vivid quilted bomber jacket embroidered with a tribal Suzani pattern.

Misha Nonoo said that her Fall collection was inspired by both Russian and British influences. I can certainly see that, especially one red and black outfit which made the model look like a sexy Grenadier guard (that trusty racoon shapka hat!) There seemed to be an emphasis on regimental coats, knitwear and flared-hem skirts too. 

Originally a bridal designer - and a brilliant one at that - Monique Lhuillier has branched out to RTW in recent years, and has become a brand name for her signature red carpet looks. I love how she showcased a little bit of everything in her Fall collection: emerald gowns, fur, intricate black lace, abstract prints and lots of sparkle; as you'd expect for potential Oscar gowns!

Prabal Gurung | Rachel Zoe | Tibi

Just look at that photograph from Prabal Gurung's collection; it has everything a woman could want in her seasonal wardrobe! The metallic killer heels are pretty statement, as you'd expect, but that seems to be an ongoing trend for Fall. His collection was full of gorgeous tailored pieces, very rich in navy blues and military khakis. Then there were the dresses. Stunning garments with daring cut-outs accessorised with leather braided belts and harnesses. I think the vast array of military jackets had to be my favourite; I'm a sucker for all that!

Expanding on the tailored theme, Rachel Zoe's Fall collection surprised me somewhat. I think because it was more of an equestrian look I didn't think I'd go for it, but there was a lot to appreciate in the end. Her attention to the outerwear in her collection really interested me, and I saw a lot of camel-beige and fur-lapel trench coats. I also loved the simplicity of her designs, especially when it came to her midi dresses.

Finally, to one of my favourite designers ever, Tibi. Much like Alice + Olivia, I have dreamed of owning the beautiful dresses that seem to get conjured up by these guys. However, there was more of an emphasis on darker colours in their Fall collection, and the focus was on layering for the colder months. Detachable hoods and turtlenecks were styled in varied ways to create different layered looks which I really enjoyed. I also loved the shearling-lined quilted jackets and the stunning cobalt coat which, amongst the muted shades, really stood out on the runway!

Oh, and I now have a Pinterest account (feel free to follow!) where you can see these stills in a bigger size, plus photographs of more of the collections and couple of designers I haven't mentioned here. It really was tough to narrow it down to this many as there were so many different styles which I really liked for Fall/Winter 2013. Next stop: London!

Did any of you guys keep tabs on NYFW? Which were your favourite collections?
Share:

2 comments

  1. they're all stunning! i cant pick a favourite!! :)
    XXX
    http://eleanorcos.blogspot.com/

    ReplyDelete

© The Last Souvenir | All rights reserved.
Blogger Template Crafted by pipdig